Executive Chef John Doherty is just as much a staple in the kitchen at New York City's renowned Waldorf Astoria Hotel as were potatoes in his household growing up as a child.

"My father was from Donegal, Ireland and we had potatoes every single night growing up," he recalls. And, as much as they were a part of his boy-hood, Doherty, still loves them today.

These days, however, the even-tempered, soft-spoken chef has expanded beyond the simplicity of the ubiquitous tuber. His palate is dignified by the likes of such classic dishes as truffled foie gras terrine or slow roasted lamb shoulder on lemon humus and tomato confit; the traditional tastes of perfectly roasted chicken; and exotic and out-of-this-world delicacies such as fricassee of lobster, morels and asparagus with champagne sauce or carpaccio of sea bass with lemon, chives and beluga caviar. Doherty's personal gastronomic vision is practical--focusing on detail, simplicity and flavor. "It is nice that food looks beautiful on the plate but that is not what determines the quality of the dish." Simply, says Doherty, "You have to serve fresh, perfectly cooked food and it has to taste great." And this good-looking gastronome does just that.

A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York, voted the student most likely to succeed, Doherty has spent the past zu years worplng ms way up tne ranes or me walaorr s I kitchen brigade-from extern to cook, then from saucier to sous chef--to become finally, in 1985, at 27, the youngest executive chef of the Waldorf. With annual food sales of $47 million, Doherty now juggles a $15 million annual budget, overseeing a staff of approximately 150 culinarians (including seven chefs), three restaurants and a banquet operation that averages 3,000 meals a day in one of the largest kitchens in the city, Doherty's goal has been to turn the Waldorf into a world-class kitchen filled with inspired chefs and cooks. He and his staff work hard to exceed the expec tations of the guests that dine at the Waldorf.

What makes this large operation run smoothly? Says Doherty, "Finding the appropriate talent, putting the right person in the right job, and giving them the freedom to do what they have to do while inspiring them to be their best." Most importantly, Doherty never loses sight that cooking is about teamwork and creativity. "Being a chef is also being an artist and I understand that each dish from all of my chefs has to come from each of their hearts, that is what gives the dish meaning."

It's important to Doherty and his team to prepare, improve and perfect quality dishes for each and every guest--no matter who they may be. Doherty says he really does not know when most of the "rich and famous" are dining in the hotel. He does, however, hold a distinction of having cooked for more U.S. Presidents, Prime Ministers, heads of state, and world leaders than any other chef in the country. "I really enjoy cooking for them and it has been an honor over the years to meet them as well."

Once a year, Doherty also has the opportunity to indulge in the "off-beat" while cooking for The Explorer's Club. "They supply the exotics--which could be alligator, crickets or zebra--and we prepare the dishes." As for his Irish connection, he creates menus for the following organizations yearly: the American Irish Historical Society, the Irish Tourist Board, Allied Irish Bank, the offical St. Patrick's Day Parade Dinner (hosted by the Archdiocese of New York) and the Irish Chamber of Commerce Governor's Breakfast.

His classical French training at the Culinary Institute and the Waldorf (as well as the inspirations acquired through his "stages" at two- and three-star Michelin restaurants in France and Belgium) provided the foundation for the way he thinks about food. But Doherty still has vivid memories of his grandmother's roast duck, creamed sauerkraut and peach dumplings. At home with his family he likes to prepare and consume peasant-type dishes such as basic roasted and grilled foods. But he doesn't cre ate or take credit for all of the cooking. He touts his wife's culinary savvy, especially her roast chicken, mashed potatoes and pasta dishes.

And as far as Doherty's love for Irish food, he'll stick to memories of his grandmother's cooking and his favorite tuber, the potato...unless, he says, someone starts harvesting truffles in Ireland.